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Join , subscribers and get a daily digest of news, geek trivia, and our feature articles. By submitting your email, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Be warned, this is an involved process: you have to go through more or less all of the steps of building a new PC from the ground up, with the added inconvenience of having to disassemble another one first. The setup on those is very specific to the components your computer uses, and also can be pretty finicky.

All you really need to work on a modern PC is a Philips-head screwdriver. I recommend using two, a big one for leverage and a small one for the hard-to-reach crannies in your case. Finally, a few cups or bowls can be really helpful to keep your various screws from rolling away. Even so, the rough steps will be broadly the same even if your build is very different. First, and obviously, remove all the various power and data cables from your PC, and then set it on a table or desk in a bright space.

Use some place without carpet if you can, to avoid static electricity. On an ATX tower, this means removing the access panels from both sides of the case some cases might have a single cover that pulls off as one unit rather than separate access panels.

There are generally two or three on each side. Take these out and set them aside. Then simply slide the access panels towards the back of the machine and pull them off. Set them aside. If your case has any more externally-removable parts, like dust filters, go ahead and pull these out as well. In some cases, you might not be able to pull the power supply out without first removing other components—like a CPU cooler.

Do things in whatever order feels best to you. On my machine, this includes all of the following:. If you have a modular power supply, which allows you to remove cables from both the components and the power supply itself, this is even easier. You can tug on either end of the cable to free it.

Note: most pre-built desktops do not use a modular power supply. Now your power supply should be mostly clear. Now move to the back of the case. There are a few screws affixing the power supply to the back of the frame.

On some case designs, these retention screws might be on the top or bottom. Remove them and set them aside. With the retention screws released, the power supply is loose, and you can pull it out of the case. Older case designs retain their hard drives, SSDs, and disc drives with only screws in the frame. First, unplug the SATA data cables from your hard drive and from the motherboard on the other end. Now for the DVD drive. Start by removing the SATA data cable.

With the power cable, data cable, and retention screws removed, I can pull the drive out of the front of the case. Set your drives aside. Then take out the screw retaining the GPU to the back of the case, where the adapter plugs stick out. Now, press the plastic tab at the end of the PCI Express card slot that the graphics card is plugged into. With the retention screws removed and the plastic tab pressed down, grip the card firmly and pull. It should come free of the motherboard.

Set the graphics card aside and move to the next part. The fans attached to your case are there to suck in cool air and blow out hot air. Luckily this is one of the easier processes. And honestly, you might not need to remove the fans themselves from the case if your new case already has fans attached. First, if any of your case fans were plugged into ports on the motherboard instead of the power supply , unplug them now.

Those 3- or 4-pin connections look like this:. Now, switch to the outside of the case and simply remove the screws holding the fans in place. Make sure to hang on to the fan from the other side as you remove the last screw, to keep it from falling in. Repeat this step for all your case fans. If your case has removable brackets for fans, just take them out in the same way. If you have a more elaborate CPU cooler or a water-based cooler, you may need to take it out to access some of the screws holding the motherboard in place.

First, set your case on its side, with the motherboard facing up. Then remove any other cables plugged into your motherboard.

At this point, these should mostly be control, audio, and USB cables running directly from your case. These can be hard to spot, especially if you have dark screws on a dark PCB, like mine.

Generally there are four positioned near the corners, with two to four more somewhere in the middle for stability. Then lift it clear of the case and set it aside. If the motherboard does not lift away easily, it likely means you missed a screw. Go back and check again. Now you should have all your components free of the old case, and ready to install into the new one. Remove both the access panels of the new case, and get started.

These allow you to screw down the motherboard and keep its electrical contacts from shorting out on the metal of the case itself. Note that some cases may have different positions available for these risers, but they should still match up to available holes in the motherboard. This is the same one that you took from your previous case. If so, you may need to remove it to insert the one that matches the ports on your motherboard. Move the motherboard onto the risers, aligned with the screw holes.

Now screw down the motherboard screws in the same spots you placed the risers. Now re-connect all the case connections to your motherboard. On a modern case, these are cables for the power switch, reset switch, power lights, and hard drive indicator light.

Consult your motherboard manual, or the photo you took previously to get these connections right. Your new case may have come with some fans pre-installed. If not, install the ones you removed from your previous case. Simply screw them down from the outside. The side of the fan with the plastic blocking the blades is the output—air flows in the direction of the plastic.

Intake fans with the plastic facing in go on the front, output generally go on the rear, top, or bottom. If your fans can connect to your motherboard, connect them now. Ditto if they can connect to your case and it has an on-board controller. Then slide the card down into the slot, putting pressure on the side nearest the rear of the case first.

Make sure it aligns with the exterior so that you can plug in the monitor cables. Push down firmly. Note that some motherboards include different types of tabs. Some automatically lock when you insert the card, some push in from the side. Place your drives into their appropriate bays, either screwed in directly or attached to their caddies. You want to install them in the same order on the board port 1, 2, 3, et cetera to avoid boot issues.

Now for the most complex part: installing the power supply. Start by inserting it into the PSU bay in the new case, then screwing it into the back with the power cord facing outward. Make sure the connections are tight, and try to route as much of the cabling as you can behind the motherboard tray to keep everything tidy. Cable management is about more than just keeping things looking pretty inside your case. Getting cables out of the way ensures that air flow in the case is not impeded, and also that you can more easily get to components when you need to.

Install any accessories for the case, like dust filters. Move your shiny new case and your dusty old parts back to your computer desk. Plug everything in and start up.

Common problems are mixed-up SATA cables, forgetting to connect the CPU power rail, and yes, really forgetting to switch the power supply on. Image credit: Fractal Design , Dell. We select and review products independently. When you purchase through our links we may earn a commission. Learn more. Windows ». What Is svchost. Best Outdoor Speakers. Best Cloud Gaming Services.